Gather Materials and Supplies:
Ladder
Plastic water bucket
Gloves
Rags
TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)
liquid soap
Screwdriver
Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets
Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)
Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting
Spackling compound
5-in-1 tool or wide blade
Latex caulk
220-grit sandpaper
Latex primer
Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen
Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket
Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover
2" - 3" Quality nylon/polyester brush
Paint Basics
Acrylic Paint?
Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.
Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.
Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?
In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."
Here is Final advice on paint quality.
When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, "don't waste your time" or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.
Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label--this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.
Estimating PAINT COVERAGE
How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room?
The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.
A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups.
Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.
Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding
whether you need a second one.
Steps To professionally Painted Walls:
CLEAR THE ROOM
STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.
FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS
STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.
NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.
NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.
CLEAN THE ROOM
STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.
NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.
TAPING
STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.
PRIMING THE WALLS
STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.
NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.
NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.
BASE COAT THE WALLS
CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE
STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.
ROLLING THE WALL:
STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.
Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.
NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.
FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING
1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.
2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.
NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.
NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.
3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.
4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.
5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.
6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.
7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN
The difference between paint sheens. What's in a name?
Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.
It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.
The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.
For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.
FLAT
Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.
Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.
Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.
EGGSHELL
Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss.
Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.
Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room
SATIN
Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.
Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.
Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.
SEMI - GLOSS
Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.
Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints
Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.
HIGH - GLOSS
Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.
Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.
Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.
Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
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