Home Decorating Supplies

Essential Decorating Supplies Explained

Author: Jessica Thomson

When it comes to decorating supplies there are the obvious pieces of equipment and then there are other devices and accessories which are easy to overlook. Obviously your choice of tools depends on the job at hand. For instance stripping wallpaper will require different apparatus from varnishing an interior door. Therefore here is a guide to the usual suspects and some handy extras in terms of decorating supplies:

When you hear the phrase decorating supplies the things that immediately spring to mind are paint rollers and brushes. One of the most popular forms of decorative domestic work is giving an interior surface a lick of paint. Brushes are useful on things like window sills and frames where detail is important and paint rollers are used where large areas are painted a single cover. Ceilings in particular are common candidates for this as the extra reach of a roller is advantageous. Both these forms of decorating supplies come in various shapes and sizes.

Other essential decorating supplies include scrapers and filling knives. The former is used for getting rid of stray bits of wallpaper and the latter is for filling in holes and cracks in plasterwork using a thick substance which sets and can be sanded - which brings us onto our next decorating supplies; sandpaper is important for getting the final finish needed for painting and wallpapering. Available in various different grains ranging from the very fine for detailed work to coarse enough to smooth out major imperfections, this can be applied by hand or using electrical belt sanders (which get their name from the belt-shaped roll of sandpaper) or orbital ones (decorating supplies which use discs of sandpaper which are rotated at high speed).

As you can imagine none of the above decorating supplies would be effective without large sheets to help reduce the mess left by decorating. Paint splatters and blobs of stray filling agent can ruin a carpet or floorboards so it is necessary to get the right fabrics to prevent your work from being counterproductive.

We have just scratched the surface of what decorating supplies need to be bought. For the above items and a range of other pieces of kit visit Decoratingsundries.co.uk.

Article Source: http://www.sooperarticles.com/shopping-articles/essential-decorating-supplies-explained-728413.html

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Decorating supplies are provided by us at the most affordable prices with a huge range to choose from, we are sure to have what you need. Decoratingsundries.co.uk even provides paint rollers http://www.decoratingsundries.co.uk/- visit us today!

Painting Decorating Courses

Decorating Courses, Jobs and Training

By Tony J Casey

Tape Measure

Only buy what you need, if you live in an average three bed semi buy a 15'/5m tape; you can buy a 75'/25m tape for a few more dollars/pounds but its money you don't have to spend.

Pencil

For marking, a must

2 Sets of Step Ladders

Ideally two sets to hold a plank, one with a tool tray at the top that falls into place when you open the steps, which holds your paint container as well as tools; the other set could be just a work mate for added stability, it has a clamp, its a work bench and its some where to put your cup of tea. However it all depends on the height of your ceiling you may well need two pair of large steps. You could just buy one and ask next door can you borrow there's.

A Plank

A plank will save a lot of time, I've seen telescopic planks on Amazon over 4 meters coming down to 2 meters for storage; there $164 around 100 pounds sterling, a great idea. Alternately you can pick up what was always used by decorators; a plank of wood around 8'/2.5m x 8"/30cm x 2"/5cm lest than quarter of the price, rigid, and you'll have it for years; buy with a family member and you'll both have it for years.

Internal Filler

A large box will do a number of projects, its always needed and easy to mix.

2 Scrapers, 2.5"/10cm & 1.5 "/4cm

A 2.5" scraper, should be fairly flexible for removing wallpaper, filling cracks in walls and mixing filler. The 1.5" scraper should be quite rigid for scraping off flaking paint and it will also double as a putty knife.

Decorators Caulk

Is another form of filler which you can use with a sealant gun. Mostly used for long cracks in corners or along skirting boards or anything that has a long run that needs filling; it comes with a plastic nozzle that you cut at 45 degrees and run along the crack squeezing at the same time. The mistake most people make is they run the gun along the area their filling pulling the gun towards them when you should run the gun along the crack way from you.

Small Hawk

Mostly used by brick layers its just a square piece of aluminum with a handle attached in the centre, holding it in your left hand you apply the filler with a scraper in your right hand. You can make a customized one, with a piece of plywood about 15cm square, a screw and cut 15cm off the handle of your mums sweeping brush; at your own peril.

A Float for filling

A float can do the same job as the hawk its smaller and less money. I've put them both in because together they'll be needed if you have to fill a larger area or do any small plastering work.

Sandpaper & Block

You will always need sandpaper for sanding down areas you can't reach with an electric sander; the block can be bought where ever you buy the sandpaper, usually made out of cork and quite inexpensive, you could use just a off cut of wood. Wrap the sand paper round the wood, making it a lot easier to sand down walls.

Plastic Containers

Mainly for painting, but also for mixing filler. If you try and paint strait from the tin your asking for trouble. First stir the paint in the tin then pour what you think you may use in one of the purpose built plastic paint containers, about half way, you can always pour in more later if you need it. The reason for doing this is to give you room when loading your brush; you dip your brush in the paint coming about a third of the way up the bristles, then tap your brush on ether side of the container, this forces the paint into the brush. Keep large food containers, their just the job.

Sugar Soap

Is a strong degreaser used for wiping down walls and paint work before you attempted to paint them, this should always be done on every job, looking at a room you may think it looks, nice and clean but try just giving it a wipe near the ceiling and you'll see what I mean, especially with open plan kitchens. If you don't wipe off the grease you'll have a layer of dirt and grease between the new paint and the ceiling; tree months down the road it could start flaking off.

2 Insulated Screw Drivers

1 Flat one and a Phillips screw driver; If not for anything else to open your paint tin. You'll find your self loosening light switches and sockets to push the edge of wallpaper behind.

A Bucket

Without a hole; for your paste and washing walls and paint work.

6" Paste Brush

For pasting and also comes in handy for applying water to walls when striping off old wallpaper and smoothing over filler about 10 minutes after its been applied.

Pasting Table

You can use the kitchen table, but ideally look at it as an investment there only $30/20pounds not every well made but last for years if your nice to them. You can get your money back by taking a trip down to your local car boot sale and setting it up with all your unwanted.

Large Shears

When your putting up wallpaper or lining paper.

Plumb Bob

Plumb bobs are not to much money and you will only need it for the first piece of wallpaper you put up, to make sure its strait. Really any kind of weight on the end of a piece of string will do. Make the string about 21'/7m long and it will also do for putting up your first piece of paper on the ceiling. You measure the width of the wallpaper out from the wall and put a mark on the ceiling at ether end of the wall with your pencil, so you have two marks ether end of the wall on the ceiling now get your string and pull it through your thumb and a piece of chalk, get your self another pair of hands and hold the string up to the two marks, pulling it quite tight with your right hand and just pull it away a little from the ceiling with your left hand and letting go; this will create a strait chalk line on the ceiling.

10" Papering Brush

To smooth down wallpaper and air bubbles, again not much money but a nice clean cloth will do the same job.

A 2.5" & 1.5" Paint brush

These two brushes are all you need for painting your wood work; any bigger you start losing control and the paint goes every where.

White Spirits

For diluting thick paint, making up primer paint (first coat on new wood). You can buy primer paint in your local DIY which will cost about $11.00 around 7.00 pounds sterling a liter; mix 4 to 1 white spirits with white undercoat and its the same thing for next to nothing.

Dust Brush

This Is your most important tool; any time your painting, undercoat or topcoat your biggest enemy is dust; wash it, fill it, sand it, dust it, the very last thing before your paint brush touches the surface your painting, DUST IT AGAIN!

Window Razor Scraper

Used for getting paint off windows, small, plastic, takes Stanley knife blades. Removing paint from windows is easy with this inexpensive scraper; the trick is to let it dry (the next day) and attack it at 90 degrees to the window frame, if you try and do it parallel with the frame there's a chance you'll run into the paint work.

Dust Sheets

Or bed sheets to cover up the furniture and carpet; you can use polythene on the furniture but don't put it on the floor, it moves on its own.

Paint Roller, Tray and Extension Pole

Paint Roller and Tray cost about $15/10 pounds for a good one. Extension Poles can cost $30/20 to $45/30 pounds sterling, depending on length and movement. What's left of your mum's brush handle will do, and cost nothing, but you'd better get your mum a new brush.

Palm Sander

Now you want to beg, steel or borrow one of these. If there's one tool that's change the world of decorating its Palm Sanders; no matter what job your doing in painting and decorating your always sanding down and 'Palm Sanders' make the job 10 times easier.

Stanley Knife

Always comes in handy for sharpening your pencil and a lot more besides.

Tool bag, electric screw drivers and one or two other general tools could be added to the list, but the list above will enable you to start a decorating business or decorate any room in your house.

How to become a Painter and Decorator

If you want to become a painter and decorator or your just redecorating a room the links below will take you to a site with a number of links that take you through decorating a room from start to finish, by a professional Painter and Decorator. You can leave comments and questions for the decorator to help you through your job.

Preparing, Painting your ceiling, walls and woodwork, Hanging wallpaper to cleaning your tools at the end of the job.

Copyright 2010 Tools You'll Need to Become a Painter and Decorator by Tony Casey, all rights reserved.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tony_J_Casey

Decorating Ideas Homes

Interior Wall Painting Techniques - Project Prep to How to and Do it Yourself

By Stephanie Tyree

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:

Ladder

Plastic water bucket

Gloves

Rags

TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)

liquid soap

Screwdriver

Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets

Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)

Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting

Spackling compound

5-in-1 tool or wide blade

Latex caulk

220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer

Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen

Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket

Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover

2" - 3" Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?

Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.

When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, "don't waste your time" or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label--this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room?
The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups.
Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding
whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.

CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.

NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What's in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss.
Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI - GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
http://www.designershistoricalstencils.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephanie_Tyree

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Get Great Results Painting Kitchen Cabinets

By Kenneth S Wood

Kitchen cabinets are subject to more wear than most woodwork in the home. The assault of messy fingers and hands, the constant opening and closing of the doors and drawers, and the exposure to the cooking residue in the air will take a toll over time. The result is significant wear and a worn look that can take away from the overall appearance of the kitchen. A good paint job can bring new life to your kitchen's atmosphere and save you a ton of money versus the cost of cabinet replacement. The savings can be significant if you are willing to tackle this project yourself. Great results will be achieved by following the fundamentals for successful paint application.

Preparation

The most important step in all projects is preparation. This is especially true in painting projects. The desired result cannot be achieved if the preparation isn't done correctly. Painting will not "fix" broken, sagging and dented objects. So it is important to prepare and if need be, repair the surfaces to be painted.

The first step is to remove all hard ware including hooks, knobs, hinges and anything that is not going to be painted from the cabinet boxes, doors and drawers. You should clean them well using an all purpose cleaner/degreaser with a rag and let them dry thoroughly. If there are any loose parts in the surfaces to be painted they will have to re-set, for example if a drawer front is loose, a simple tightening of a couple of screws may be all it takes to secure the front to the box. Or perhaps you have a sagging shelve because of a loose support or not enough support, this will have to be taken care of before you paint and reassemble. I won't go into much detail about cabinet repair in this article. (If there is extensive repair needed you might be advised to replace the cabinets.)

For dents and deeper scratches, you should apply some wood putty with a putty knife to the damaged area and smooth it down to a sandable height, being careful to not scrape in down too much. (If it is too flat or flush, it may leave an indention after drying.) After the putty has dried, sand it down with fine grit sandpaper.

Sanding

When the doors and drawers have been removed, and the hardware removed from them, it's best to place them on a flat surface such as a table, work bench, or I find it works well to place a long board, such as a 2x12, between 2 sawbucks and line the doors or drawers down the board. This next part is a little labor intensive, or tedious, but very important to ensure a good result. Use a fine grit sandpaper and rough up all the surfaces to be painted. That goes for the cabinet box faces, sides, and inside edges of the faces.(That is the smaller visible edge just inside the face going toward the inside of the cabinet) This sanding step will allow the primer or the paint to adhere much better and reduce chipping, flaking and peeling in the future. You don't have to sand really hard, just rough it up a bit, covering the entire surface thoroughly.

Applying the Primer

If the cabinets were painted before and you're just repainting you can skip this step. Applying primer is a must because it will cause the paint to adhere better to the surface making the paint less susceptible to chips and peeling. If you're painting over stained wood, or sealed wood (such as polyurethane) the color is likely to "bleed" through, and the paint tends to not stick to these types of surfaces.

If you are going to use a latex based paint, then a shellac base primer should be used. If you will be using an oil-based paint, the best primer will be an oil-based interior type. When applying primer it is best to do so when the work area can be properly ventilated. An open door or large window with a strong fan pulling the vapors out would be best.

Now It's Time to Paint

At this point, after the repairs, sanding and priming the doors, drawer faces and cabinets might not be very pretty, but rest assured that you have made a good foundation for your paint that will bring satisfaction with the final result.

The key to applying the paint is to apply 2 or more thin coats. This will result in a smoother and more durable finish. It's tempting to go with one thick coat at this time because of the urge to hurry and finish after all the work you've put in so far, but you will be more pleased with the outcome if you'll be a little more patient here at the end.

A smoother, more glossy coat will be achieved with a pneumatic spray gun, but not-to-worry if you don't have access to one because great results can still be achieved with a good quality 2 ½ " to 3" brush. Again, the secret is to apply more than 1 thin coat. After the 1st coat has dried, use some 400 grits sanding paper to smooth out any blemishes or rough spots. You are not trying to remove paint, but just insuring the smoothest surface possible for the next coat. In applying the coats, naturally you want to avoid runs or drops in the finish, but if you accidentally have any, you can let the paint dry thoroughly and lightly smooth it out with the 400 grit paper. Usually 2 coats will do unless you have a coarse grained wood to cover.

Inspect to make sure all edges are covered and smooth. Don't forget those inside edges of the cabinet face. This will give your paint job a much more pleasing and professionally finished look. Install the hardware, drawers and doors, and enjoy your bright, revitalized kitchen. You will feel satisfaction and pride in the new look and new feel of the kitchen, not to mention the fact that you've saved thousands of dollars in replacement cost.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_S_Wood