Home Decorating Supplies

Essential Decorating Supplies Explained

Author: Jessica Thomson

When it comes to decorating supplies there are the obvious pieces of equipment and then there are other devices and accessories which are easy to overlook. Obviously your choice of tools depends on the job at hand. For instance stripping wallpaper will require different apparatus from varnishing an interior door. Therefore here is a guide to the usual suspects and some handy extras in terms of decorating supplies:

When you hear the phrase decorating supplies the things that immediately spring to mind are paint rollers and brushes. One of the most popular forms of decorative domestic work is giving an interior surface a lick of paint. Brushes are useful on things like window sills and frames where detail is important and paint rollers are used where large areas are painted a single cover. Ceilings in particular are common candidates for this as the extra reach of a roller is advantageous. Both these forms of decorating supplies come in various shapes and sizes.

Other essential decorating supplies include scrapers and filling knives. The former is used for getting rid of stray bits of wallpaper and the latter is for filling in holes and cracks in plasterwork using a thick substance which sets and can be sanded - which brings us onto our next decorating supplies; sandpaper is important for getting the final finish needed for painting and wallpapering. Available in various different grains ranging from the very fine for detailed work to coarse enough to smooth out major imperfections, this can be applied by hand or using electrical belt sanders (which get their name from the belt-shaped roll of sandpaper) or orbital ones (decorating supplies which use discs of sandpaper which are rotated at high speed).

As you can imagine none of the above decorating supplies would be effective without large sheets to help reduce the mess left by decorating. Paint splatters and blobs of stray filling agent can ruin a carpet or floorboards so it is necessary to get the right fabrics to prevent your work from being counterproductive.

We have just scratched the surface of what decorating supplies need to be bought. For the above items and a range of other pieces of kit visit Decoratingsundries.co.uk.

Article Source: http://www.sooperarticles.com/shopping-articles/essential-decorating-supplies-explained-728413.html

About Author:

Decorating supplies are provided by us at the most affordable prices with a huge range to choose from, we are sure to have what you need. Decoratingsundries.co.uk even provides paint rollers http://www.decoratingsundries.co.uk/- visit us today!

Decorative Paint Effects

What You Need to Know About the Decorative

Painter's Tools

By Danita Lickfelt

The author of a book on trim voiced his observation about how each generation of carpentry books seem to assume that carpenters know less and less. He cited the way new books having to describe in excruciating detail procedures which used to receive only rudimentary treatment, attributing this to the decline of the apprentice system in the United States. He's probably right.

The pyramids, Solomon's Temple, and the soaring cathedrals of Europe would not have been possible without the skilled craftsmen who learned their craft from skilled craftsmen before them. Italian luthier Antonio Stradivari is said to have learned violin-making in the shop of violin maker extraordinaire Nicolo Amati, but his genius couldn't be restrained, and proceeded to outshine his master . Today, Stradivarius violins, or simply Strad, are the last word in violins.

The shift toward Do-It-Yourself partly explains this phenomenon. Increasingly people would rather do things themselves rather than call in skilled help, no doubt encouraged by the abundant availability of how-to-do-it-yourself books. Often the purchase of a discount wall art or an iron wall art will require the jazzing up of the focal wall, necessitating work that the homeowner feels he can do himself. For that kind of homeowner, here's what he needs to know about tools and supplies.

PAINTBRUSHES AND APPLICATORS

You don't use just about any kind of paintbrush for a particular type of painting work. Synthetic-bristle paintbrushes are used with water-based latex and acrylic paints, while those with natural bristles are used with oil-based paints. Using natural-bristle paintbrushes with water-based paints will result in the brushes bunching together destroying the finish, although there are situations which call for the use of natural-bristle paintbrushes with water-based paints, as when streaking water-based color-washed finish, or dry-brushing water-based paints to tone down faux wood and strie finishes.

To clean paintbrushes you need brush combs to remove residual paint from brushes and align the bristles to allow for proper drying. Brush combs have a curved side opposite the teeth. This is for cleaning paint rollers.

Decorative painters also use stencil brushes, which have small and large versions. Small stencil brushes are used for fine detail work, and large stencil brushes for designs with large openings. Both synthetic- or natural-bristle stencil brushes may be used with acrylics.

Decorative painters also use artist's brushes: fan, liner, and flat. Remember always to gently stroke the bristles with your fingers after cleaning them in a stream of water using mild soap, and storing them upright on their handles afterward.

There are also sponge applicators for application on smooth, flat surfaces.

Painting walls next to moldings, ceilings, and corners can be tricky, and that's why you have paint edgers with guide wheels.

PAINT ROLLERS

If you have a wall or ceiling to paint, you use paint rollers. Paint rollers have three parts. The extension pole has a threaded female that accommodates the handle of the roller frame. Choose roller frames with nylon bearings and a threaded end. Roller pads are available in different nap thicknesses. Use synthetic or lamb's wool roller pads with water-based paints. For painting on smooth surfaces like wood, wallboard, or smooth plaster, use short-nap roller pads (1/4" to 3/8"). Use medium-nap and long-nap roller pads for everything else.

TAPES

You need tapes to cover any surrounding areas. One type is painter's masking tape. Another is painter's tape, a strip of wide brown paper with only one edge having adhesive. Stencil tape looks like masking tape, but differs from masking tape in its ability to stick to Mylar stencils without damaging them.

This Article was provided by Danita Lickfelt who writes for an online metal wall art store that features musical wall sculptures and metal wall artwork.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danita_Lickfelt

Decorative Paint Rollers

Textured Paint Rollers

By Calvin Knowles

If you feel that it is time to make a change in your home because you have been staring at the same four walls for too long, it could be that you could get away with a new layer and color of paint to make all of the change that you are going to need to feel like you have made a huge difference. While choosing the new color of paint is the most important part, thinking about how to make things a bit more interesting should be on your mind as well. Look at textured paint rollers to see if you can come up with some inspiration for a truly spectacular room.

You can get simple textured paint rollers that add just a touch of texture to your walls. There are some great patterns out there, or you can get textured paint as well as the rollers to get really creative. You will notice that your paint roller feels different to your fingers when you touch it. The material is not going to be as soft as the ones on typical paint rollers. This is the way they are supposed to be. This allows them to deposit more paint in some areas, and also to move paint away when against the wall to achieve a certain look. They really are quite neat if you take the time to study them.

Though some pick one color and then the textured paint rollers to go with that color, you can get even more creative than that. You can choose one texture in one color, and then you can go over it with another color with a different texture. You may not want to do this randomly though. Perhaps you could take a class at your local home store about using textured rollers, or you could buy a few that you think look interesting, along with the paint you want, and try out a few designs on a spare board before you touch your walls. That way you know you like what you are about to do.

Because you can use textured paint rollers over and over again, just like other rollers, you can put them away for later. You may be less likely to use the same pattern again, but it never hurts to make sure that you clean them out correctly and put them away the right way so that you have them again in the future. If something happens to your home, you have them for patch jobs and touch ups. Wash them with the appropriate soap until the water runs completely clean, and then allow them to air dry completely before you stash them away in a sealed plastic bag for later use.

When the time comes to update a room that you have used textured paint rollers on in the past, you may have to sand the walls down first if your texture is thick. Otherwise, it could show through your new paint job if you opt for going with single, flat color again. Feel the wall with your hands if you worry that the texture may show through and decide if you think sanding should be done. This can be time consuming, so think about that as you choose how much texture you want to put on your walls. The truth is that you don't need much to make a huge change, so keep that in mind as you go.

Read more about author in:

car seat cushions [http://www.carseatcushion.info/car-seat-cushions.html]

bathroom light fixtures

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Calvin_Knowles

Decorating Ideas Homes

Interior Wall Painting Techniques - Project Prep to How to and Do it Yourself

By Stephanie Tyree

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:

Ladder

Plastic water bucket

Gloves

Rags

TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)

liquid soap

Screwdriver

Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets

Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)

Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting

Spackling compound

5-in-1 tool or wide blade

Latex caulk

220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer

Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen

Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket

Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover

2" - 3" Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?

Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.

When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, "don't waste your time" or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label--this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room?
The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups.
Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding
whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.

CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.

NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What's in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss.
Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI - GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
http://www.designershistoricalstencils.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephanie_Tyree